Monday, November 23, 2009

Salt n Wound


Back in the day Martin Crocker climbed a stunning line at Port Soif. At E5 6b it was well out of my league but as it was such a stunning line I couldn't help but try it on top rope. It took a few sessions to work out the sequence but there was still the problem of protection. That was until Paul pointed out a few obvious, if not small, RP placements. So I could do the moves there was ample gear and therefore no reason to try and lead it... I probably would of left it for another day but Paul was quite persuasive.

Of course it was never going to be that simple the crux move for me was a blind slap to a poor rounded hold. If I didn't get this first time it was highly likely I'd take a fall.

Well I slapped for the hold but it wasn't there... A look down at the RPs reminded me that I should keep trying. A few more slaps and still this hold was nowhere to be found. After a while I just ran out of juice and peeled off. 2 out of the 3 RPs popped because the rock popped too. The remaining one looked pretty good so it was still on!

After few minutes I was off again this time slapping and sticking the hold. Next was a move which depended on the smallest of edges for your feet and a big reach to a BIG jug! After that the game was mine...