Salt n Wound

Back in the day Martin Crocker climbed a stunning line at Port Soif. At E5 6b it was well out of my league but as it was such a stunning line I couldn't help but try it on top rope. It took a few sessions to work out the sequence but there was still the problem of protection. That was until Paul pointed out a few obvious, if not small, RP placements. So I could do the moves there was ample gear and therefore no reason to try and lead it... I probably would of left it for another day but Paul was quite persuasive.

Of course it was never going to be that simple the crux move for me was a blind slap to a poor rounded hold. If I didn't get this first time it was highly likely I'd take a fall.

Well I slapped for the hold but it wasn't there... A look down at the RPs reminded me that I should keep trying. A few more slaps and still this hold was nowhere to be found. After a while I just ran out of juice and peeled off. 2 out of the 3 RPs popped because the rock popped too. The remaining one looked pretty good so it was still on!

After few minutes I was off again this time slapping and sticking the hold. Next was a move which depended on the smallest of edges for your feet and a big reach to a BIG jug! After that the game was mine...

Son of Snitter

Took my first lead fall in a while... felt good! Got to the top after a few more as well.

Thriller

Well I had been top roping it for a while and figured out the protection, this even involved measuring a crack with a caliper (10mm if your interested), so now it was time to lead it.

It all went smoothly and my new bit of gear I bought fitted perfectly. I've named the route "Thriller" because it was a thriller and because of the day itself.

As for the grade I'm not sure but comparing it to other routes I've been on I'd say E3/E4 6a. But second accents will confirm this.

80s Climbing Social

It was the Guernsey Mountaineering Club's very first fancy dress climbing session and what better theme than 80s climbing.  If you want proof that wearing leggings lets you climb harder check out 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5yKY-hafJ0

New Problem

Managed to link two problems together today at the Pec Boulder. Taking the start of the sit start problem it dives off left after the first big move to finish up the arete.

This is the first accent as far as I'm aware and I also managed to beat Chris to it. A bit of competition definitely helps to raise standards!

Port Soif Project Accent

I couldn't stop thinking how close I was so headed straight back to Port Soif the next day. It didn't take long and I made it up followed shortly after by Chris.

Port Soif Project

Each time I go bouldering at Port Soif I always try an impossible looking sit start. Each time I also get no closer. However today was to be different. I always attacked the problem head on but Steve G suggested a slight deviation. Before long I was desperately hanging of the final holds only to fall off. I new it would go but just run out of time.

Standby

A while ago I revisted the Pec boulder for some gently bouldering. But the great thing about the Pec boulder is that there is so much potential. I'd saw some lines which may have gone and also some sit starts to existing problems. After a couple of sessions working them still wasn't anywhere near.

Today was different and after a while I had work out the sequence. It took me a few attempts but managed it.

As far as I know this was a first accent and I'm going to name it "Standby" as I was on standby for my work...

Limits

After my defeat on "the Arms Race" I realised to move up the grades I'd first have to go back down them in order to get my confidence back. Severe and a few Hard Servers proved to be short of the challenge I needed so I decided to skip VS and move straight onto HVS. "Breathless" had big powerful moves at the start with a mantelshelf onto a ledge being the crux. I quickly found that this was near my limit, not my climbing limit but rather my psychological limit. This was probably due to the gear being adequate but not bomber.

I suppose the real challenge is getting this psychological limit up to where my physical limit is...

I lost the arms race!

After seeing Chris waltz up an E2 I thought it was time to up my own game. Consulting the guide book I found an E1 5b called Arms Race. It looked very doable with plenty of gear and an overhang which would have to be tackled direct, this would be the crux I told myself. Right from the start I realized I'd underestimated it. I hadn't even reached the over hang when, pumped and concerned about taking a fall on my gear, I told Chris to lower me down.

This was a big shot to my confidence but decided to give it another go. This time I made it to just below the over hang where a big jug meant I could shack out. I took a few moments to compose myself, looked at the overhang then...... bottled it completely and got lowered down for the second and last time.

Chris pulled the ropes through then led it with no real problems. The whole thing felt so much easier seconding it, just need to get my head in the right space!

Excalibur

I couldn't really think of a good enough excuse so flaked out the ropes under Excalibur (E1 5b). After 10 minutes of faff at the bottom I set off up this sustained overhanging corner. Now I'm not going to say I found it easy but all the gear was in the right places and there were rests Where I needed them. I got to the top congratulated myself then set about making the belay, maybe I am climbing E1?

What Its All About

Hello All

I've been climbing a few years now but due to Uni haven't been able to commit as much time as I'd like to climbing. No Uni is over and I'm back living in Guernsey there is no excuse. I'm using this blog as a place to throw done my thoughts of how I'm getting on sharing the highs and the lows.

Hope you enjoy!