Monday, June 7, 2010

Potential Difference

After getting back from Font all I wanted to do was boulder HARD! During a club night at Port Soif I starting trying a few things on the barrel boulder. There are a few existing problems on this but to the best of my knowledge the obvious line straight up the middle using the lonely hand hold remained unclimbed. After a few attempts I could stick this handhold. I decided to start working it and for about 6 evenings after work I was down there trying it for around an hour each time.

It felt impossibly hard at the start but when I finally sent it I knew I could climb harder. As for a grade no idea, however it is the hardest thing I've done.


Sunday, February 21, 2010

Keep The Faith





Had the best day bouldering! Last year Chris, Nathan and I found this awesome line at Rousse. It took us all day to unlock the crux just to find that the top out was just as hard! As its tidal we were pushed off but the seed was planted!

Anyway, 6 months later, we'd come back armed with a stack of bouldering mats and a view to tick off this project.

Nathan was first to send the problem however as always his reach meant that I had to find foot hold higher up which only just allowed my fingers to creep up to the final jug!

Although not many of the boulder problems have names this one deserved one and so after some discussion we decided to call it "Keep the Faith" as when your doing the crux move as each moment passes your left wondering how your still on!

With the project ticked our attention turned to exploring the area for some easier climbs. Hi-lights of what we found were a text box introduction to lay-backing, and an area with a number of sit starts of varying difficulties.

Roll on the next session...

Monday, November 23, 2009

Salt n Wound


Back in the day Martin Crocker climbed a stunning line at Port Soif. At E5 6b it was well out of my league but as it was such a stunning line I couldn't help but try it on top rope. It took a few sessions to work out the sequence but there was still the problem of protection. That was until Paul pointed out a few obvious, if not small, RP placements. So I could do the moves there was ample gear and therefore no reason to try and lead it... I probably would of left it for another day but Paul was quite persuasive.

Of course it was never going to be that simple the crux move for me was a blind slap to a poor rounded hold. If I didn't get this first time it was highly likely I'd take a fall.

Well I slapped for the hold but it wasn't there... A look down at the RPs reminded me that I should keep trying. A few more slaps and still this hold was nowhere to be found. After a while I just ran out of juice and peeled off. 2 out of the 3 RPs popped because the rock popped too. The remaining one looked pretty good so it was still on!

After few minutes I was off again this time slapping and sticking the hold. Next was a move which depended on the smallest of edges for your feet and a big reach to a BIG jug! After that the game was mine...

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Son of Snitter

Took my first lead fall in a while... felt good! Got to the top after a few more as well.

Friday, June 26, 2009

Thriller

Well I had been top roping it for a while and figured out the protection, this even involved measuring a crack with a caliper (10mm if your interested), so now it was time to lead it.

It all went smoothly and my new bit of gear I bought fitted perfectly. I've named the route "Thriller" because it was a thriller and because of the day itself.

As for the grade I'm not sure but comparing it to other routes I've been on I'd say E3/E4 6a. But second accents will confirm this.


Tuesday, June 23, 2009

80s Climbing Social


It was the Guernsey Mountaineering Club's very first fancy dress climbing session and what better theme than 80s climbing.  If you want proof that wearing leggings lets you climb harder check out 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5yKY-hafJ0


Sunday, June 21, 2009

New Problem

Managed to link two problems together today at the Pec Boulder. Taking the start of the sit start problem it dives off left after the first big move to finish up the arete.

This is the first accent as far as I'm aware and I also managed to beat Chris to it. A bit of competition definitely helps to raise standards!